This article briefly introduces the mechanism and finishing process of the finishing agent used for soft finishing, oil-repellent and anti-fouling, shrinkage and sanitary finishing of wool fabrics.
1. Overview
Today, with the continuous improvement of consumption level and post-organization technology of wool fabrics, there are endless varieties of wool textile fabrics. This is not something that a single textile technology can achieve, but a collection of technologies such as textile, chemical industry, polymer materials and bioengineering, especially in post-organization technology. Therefore, the post-organization technology of wool textile fabrics and the application of various finishing agents are being highly valued by people in the wool textile industry.
Traditional wool fabric finishing is all sorts of wet and dry. Influenced by this traditional concept, some old manufacturers installed liquid rolling machines in wet workshops in the arrangement of equipment, and dryers were installed in the dry workshops. Such an installation arrangement is extremely unfavorable to the development of modern wool fabric post-organization technology, and is also extremely unfavorable to the display of post-organization effect, and is prone to many defects. Taking soft finishing as an example, if the commonly used amino-modified silicone microemulsion softener is rolled in the wet workshop, the cloth is rolled and then sent to the dry workshop to dry. Due to the stacking of the cloth, the working liquid will accumulate. It will cause the feel of the front and rear fabrics to be different, and sometimes soft cross-distances will appear.
At present, the main finishing techniques used in the production of wool fabrics include soft finishing, oil-repellent and stain-repellent, anti-shrinkage, anti-static and sanitary finishing.
2. Finishing agent and its application
2.1 Soft finishing
2.1.1 Soft finishing agent Nowadays, manufacturers mostly use bisamino-modified amino silicone microemulsion softener in the production of wool fabrics. and stearic acid amide softeners. When applying, you can choose one of two categories according to the fabric style. Two softeners can also be mixed in different proportions. The former is characterized by smoothness, and its emulsion particles are very fine, with a particle size of about 1μm, and molecules can enter the fibers, so they are called in-fiber softeners. When the manufacturer produces low molecular silicone monomers, it can directly use a high concentration (30%) softener produced by emulsion polymerization. It has low viscosity and finer particles, which can better reflect its style characteristics after finishing the fabric. The latter can give the fabric a rich and soft feel, but the fabric is not as smooth as the former. Therefore, for high-strength thin fabrics, you can use the former or the working liquid with a higher proportion of the former to be sorted out.
2.1.2 Finishing process (1) Working liquid composition AV-910 Amino-modified silicone microemulsion softener 1~3 g/L Penetrant 1 g/L (2) Process two-soaking and two-rolling below 40℃ (Rolling balance is about 70%)-Just dry. For stearic acid amide emulsion softener, you can calculate the concentration of 8%, and the working liquid is 20-30g/L to organize the fabric.
2.2 Oil-repellent and anti-fouling finishing
— As a high-end wool fabric, it is very popular among consumers with oil-repellent and anti-fouling properties. The finishing of this type of fabric is a fluorine-based systemThe compound forms a thin film on the surface of the fiber, changing the surface tension of the fabric, making it difficult for water and oil to wet on its surface, thereby achieving the effect of repelling oil and water. This type of additive can also reduce the surface specific resistance of the fabric and have certain anti-static and dust-proof effects. At present, there are FC-5101 and FC-5102 produced by the United States 3M company in the domestic market, which are suitable for high-end wool fabrics.
2.2.1 Finishing agent FC-5101 and FC-5102 are both fluoride emulsions, and the ambient temperature cannot be higher than 50℃ when stored. When using it, be careful not to add surfactants, silicone-based softeners and defoaming agents that have wetting effects to the working liquid.
2.2.2 The composition of the working liquid takes FC-5101 as an example: 0~2 mL/L acetic acid of whole-wool or wool-polyester fabrics. Adjust the pH value to about 5.5 FC-5101 40~60 g/L
2.2 .3 Finishing process: Two immersions and two rolls, and then dry them. For wool fabrics, the finishing can also be completed after the working liquid is plunged.
2.3 Anti-feeding finishing
— The directional friction effect caused by the scale layer structure of wool will cause great felting and shrinking when washed. To prevent this phenomenon, the chlorination method can be used to destroy the scale structure or cover the scales with polymer resin to eliminate the directional friction effect of the wool and achieve the anti-feeding effect. The chlorination method is generally carried out during wool strip processing, but the working environment is relatively harsh and the workplace must be well ventilated. Currently, due to the emergence of silicone resins and polyurethane resins, the latter processing is possible.
2.3.1 Finishing agent At present, the domestic wool anti-feeding finishing agent is AV-801 produced by the Beijing Branch of Advanced Chemical (Tianjin) Co., Ltd., which is a silicon-based resin. It uses the active groups in silicone resin to chemically bond with the active groups in wool fiber protein molecules to form a mesh film on the surface of wool fibers, eliminating the directional friction effect caused by wool due to the scale structure, and achieving anti-felt shrinkage Purpose. The water-soluble polyurethane resin wool anti-shrinking agent NDR-9801 developed by the research team led by Professor Yang Dingguo of Northwest Textile Institute also has the same anti-shrinking effect.
2.3.2 Finishing process (1) AV-801 working fluid: AV-801 120 g/L; Penetrant JFC 1 g/L; pH=6~7. Finishing process: Two-immersion and two-rolling, rolling balance is 70%, dry at 80-100℃ and then bake at 220℃ for 90s. (2) NDR-9801 Working liquid: NDR-9801 20～25 g/L Penetrant JFC 1～2 g/L; NaHCO3 2～3 g/L; Finishing process: two immersion and two rolling, rolling balance rate 70%～ 90%, dry at 100°C and then steam at 105°C for 3-5 minutes. To make it feel good, you can then finish it softly after tidying.
2.4 Hygienic and antibacterial finishing
— High-branch shirt fabrics have appeared in the wool-twisting industry. This type of fabric often comes into contact with human skin, so it is necessary to perform antibacterial and hygienic finishing. The silicone antibacterial and anti-odor finishing agent AV-990, developed by the Beijing Branch of Xianxing Chemical and Northwest Textile Institute, is a sterilization and sanitation finishing agent for the new polymer silicone quaternary ammonium polymer. It uses active groups in silicone polymers to graft cationic groups with bactericidal properties on the surface of the fibers, which can kill negatively charged bacteria. It mainly uses cationic groups to penetrate the surface membrane of bacteria, causing the bacteria’s body fluid to flow out, achieving bactericidal effect. The finishing agent has been inspected by the Institute of Environmental Sanitation Monitoring of the Chinese Academy of Preventive Medical Sciences. Its LD50 is greater than 10g/kg, which is an actual non-toxic level. It has no obvious irritation to the skin and does not show any skin allergic reactions. It is a safe and new antibacterial hygiene finishing agent.
Paining and finishing process
(1) Working liquid: AV-990 8~15g/L. pH=6~7.
(2) Finishing process: one immersion, one roll or two immersions, two rolls, the rolling balance is 70% to 80%, and then dried and cross-linked for 5 minutes at 220 to 130°C. AV-990, 0.8% to 1.3% (o.w.f.), temperature 30 to 50°C, bath ratio 15 to 20:1, after dehydration, drying at 80 to 220°C. ?Fuanjiro? Antibacterial finishing agent is suitable for textiles of all kinds of fibers. Evenly, spinning is not easy to break. For example, spinning cashmere high-spin knitted yarn, the fineness should be below 16μm, and the fineness should be discrete at about 20%. However, fibers with very fineness can easily cause bleaching and pilling on the surface of the fabric. Therefore, high-end fabrics such as cashmere should be imitated. If you make woven cashmere products, the fineness can be around 16μm.
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